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Front Lower Control Arm Install
Removal:
1. Jack car up safely,
and put jackstands underneath vehicle.
2. Remove front wheels
(you may have to loosen off the lugnuts while the car
is still on the ground or have someone step on the brake
pedal while the front end is up in the air).
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3. Remove front lower splash
guard with 10mm socket. |
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4. Remove left and right
swaybar endlink nuts with 14mm socket. |
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5. Remove TC Rod nuts
with 17mm socket.
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6. Remove strut to
spindle bolts with 17mm socket and 17mm wrench.
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7. Pull back the spindle
to expose the 22mm ball joint nut.
8. Remove the cotter
pin.
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9. Remove the ball
joint nut with a 22mm socket. |
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10. The ball joint
is a taper fit and requires a fair amount of force to
lift the spindle from the ball joint. Use a proper ball
joint tool or you can use a pickle fork and at least a
5 lb sledge hammer. Note ** If using a pickle fork, prior
to whacking away, ensure you put both strut to spindle
bolts back in and tighten at least one of them. Otherwise,
your control arm and spindle will flop around and you
will have a difficult time popping the spindle off the
ball joint. |
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Note: If you are intending
to reuse your stock control arm, we highly do not recommend
using a pickle fork, as it creates undue stress and strain
on the front lower ball joint and boot. If you are just
replacing the arms, then it is fine.
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11. Loosen off the
inner control arm bolt with a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench. |
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12. Hang the spindle assembly back up
to the strut or wire it to prevent brake hose damage.
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13. Repeat for other
side.
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Front Lower Control Arm Install:
1. Lubricate the front
control arm inner bolt well with anti-sieze compound along
the bolt length and the threads. (we have found that over
time these bolts will start to rust and have come across
some so rusted and galled that we had to torch them out)
Remember, 'Never Sieze' is your friend. 'Never Sieze'
is your friend. (repeat this mantra 2-3 times each day
when working on your car) Finallly, torque this nut to
65-80 ft/lbs.
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2. Lubricate
the control arm ball joint with anti-sieze and thread
the nut on by hand. Torque down nut with 22mm socket. |
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3. Install supplied cotter pin. |
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4. Install lower strut to
spindle bolts (after lubricating with anti-sieze) and torque
to 84-98 ft/lbs. (Note** If you have camber
bolts, an alignment will be required!) |
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5. Re-install TC Rod, making
sure you lubricate front bolts and threads with anti-sieze.
Torque bolts to 65-80 ft/lbs. |
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6. Re-install swaybar endlinks.
Make sure you do not overtighten the links and squash the
rubber/urethane endlink donuts. You want it snug but not
binding and compressing. |
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7. Install supplied grease
zirk fitting on bottom of control arm ball joint. Do not
overtigten. Grease up ball joint with any good lithium or
moly based grease. We at PDM Racing now grease all of our
control arms before they leave our store. |
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8. Re-install lower splash
guard, install wheels and torque lugnuts to 75 ft/lbs (again,
putting anti-sieze compound on the wheel lugs). |
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9. Check all nuts and bolts for proper
tightening. |
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10. Lower car and have alignment
done if needed. |
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