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Front Whiteline Nissan 240SX Swaybar
1. Jack car up safely,
and put jackstands underneath vehicle.
2. Remove front wheels
(you may have to loosen off the lugnuts while the car
is still on the ground or have someone step on the brake
pedal while the front end is up in the air).
3. Remove front lower
splash guard with 10mm socket. |
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4. Remove left and
right swaybar endlink nuts with 14mm socket.
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5. Push up and rotate
the bar once both sides of the endlinks are loosened off
to free up the bolt through the front lower control arms.
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6. Remove swaybar D bar bracket bolt
and nut with 14mm socket.
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7. Remove the swaybar
from the front of the car.
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8. Keep the stock
swaybar D bar bracket unless you have purchased new one.
(inspect the old ones to make sure they are not bent,
scraped or rusted badly. (it’s a good idea to just
buy new ones as over time the stock ones will rust and
gall. Likewise with the swaybar bolts and nuts. If your
D bar brackets are in good shape, clean them up and give
them a coat of anti-rust paint prior to installing them
back in). |
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9. Note the difference
between the stock OEM Nissan swaybar (25mm hollow) vs
the solid Whiteline adjustable bar (27mm-31mm adjustable)
Just the weight alone will indicate to you how beefy these
new bars are (hollow bars are SUBSTANTIALLY softer than
a solid bar, let alone a larger solid bar). |
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10. Lubricate the
D bar bushing bracket with the supplied grease, and also
the inside diameter of the yellow D bar bushings. This
allows the bar to rotate freely through the suspension’s
travel and prevent squeaking. |
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11. Install the D
bar bushings over top the swaybar and locate the bar in
the center of the vehicle. (check that the bar is centered
before tightening down the brackets or else the suspension
links will not work correctly). Put some anti-sieze lubricant
on the D bar bracket and bolt threads. Torque nuts and
bolts down to 29-36 ft/lbs.
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12. Install the
supplied swaybar control arm bracket and make sure it
is lined up perpendicular to the swaybar arm. Do not install
it crooked, as you need to have the brackets in line with
the swaybar for the links to work correctly. |
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It may be easier to use a large wrench
to hold the bracket while you tighten the nylock nut on
the bottom (with washer under the nut) with a 19mm socket. |
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13. Attach endlinks
as shown making sure the large flat washers are next to
the polyurethane bushings, not the swaybar. |
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Note – The links should be in
as vertical a position as possible, to ensure proper force
load. Tighten down the nylock nuts with washer underneath.
You cannot overtighten the endlinks, as there is a center
crush tube.
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14. Check and tighten
all the nuts and bolts prior to dropping the car, and
re-check all fittings after several hundred miles and
then at least a few times per year. |
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