Rear Whiteline Nissan 240SX Swaybar Install

1. Jack car up safely, and put jackstands underneath vehicle.
2. Remove rear wheels.
3. Remove rear swaybar endlinks with 12mm wrenches and or sockets.

5. Keep the old D bar brackets and clean up unless they are galled and rusted. This is a good time to cleanup and re-paint the brackets with a good anti-rust paint. Note: Base model S14 cars may not have a rear swaybar, so the OEM swaybar brackets and bolts will be required to install the Whiteline Swaybar. Check with PDM before ordering up the bars to make sure you have all of the required components.

6. Remove the stock swaybar. On some installs, the rear exhaust section may have to be dropped or removed depending on how high the car is up off the ground and how large the diameter of the rear exhaust pipe.

7. Notice the huge size difference between the stock solid OEM bar and the solid Whiteline adjustable swaybar.

8. Lubricate the D bar bushing bracket with the supplied grease, and also the inside diameter of the yellow D bar bushings. This allows the bar to rotate freely through the suspension’s travel and prevent squeaking.

9. Install the D bar bushings over top the swaybar and locate the bar in the center of the vehicle. Check that the bar is centered before tightening down the brackets or else the suspension links will not work correctly. Put some anti-sieze lubricant on the D bar bolt threads. Torque bolts down to 29-36 ft/lbs.

10. Insert the long swaybar endlink bushing from the bottom up, with washer and one yellow endlink donut bushing in place.

11. From the topside of the rear arm, slide one yellow endlink donut up to the control arm, and place washer and locknut on. Tighten down the nylon locknut so that the yellow endlink donuts are still a bit loose and the endlink can swing back and forth.

13. Once the bar is loosely fitted, then you may tighten down the swaybar bolts until the crush tube is compressed. Next tighten the bottom control arm nut until the endlink donuts are firmly compressed by the washer, not squashed and bulging.

ADJUSTMENT: To adjust the swaybar, you move the endlinks from hole to hole. Full soft is in the farthest outward hole (bar is the longest length). Full stiff is in the farthest inward hole.

Move the endlink bottom position to maximize the vertical position of the endlink. We recommend you set the bars on full soft, front and rear at first, to get used to the much firmer roll rate of the car. Then once you want to experiment, adjust the fronts first (shorten the bar overall length), not the back. Stiffening only the back swaybar will create oversteer (car wants to spin on you) which can be dangerous if driver skill is not good. If the car has a push, or understeer where the front end does not want to bite and continues in a straight line when cornering, soften up the front bar to gain more bite. (or create more oversteer) Play with the settings, especially if you have an open parking lot to learn the different characteristics of your vehicle at different bar settings.

Symptom: Car pushes or understeers.
Solution: Soften front bar and shock rate or stiffen rear bar to create more oversteer.

Symptom: Car is very taily. Wants to oversteer and swap ends.
Solution: Soften up the rear swaybar and shock rate, or stiffen up front swaybar.

Symptom: Car slides around in the rain.
Solution: Soften up both front and rear bars as much as possible to allow the car to roll more. In bad snow or heavy torrential rain races, we even suggest removing the swaybars completely (endlinks off) or going back to a stock bar setup. In slippery conditions, you want to have as soft a suspension setup as possible with softer spring and shock rates, and softer swaybar rates. Also for road racers, add ballast as much as 150-300 lbs in heavy rain. The extra weight will allow more footprint pressure on your tires and make the car easier to apply throttle.

Symptom: Car still rolls a lot when driven hard.
Solution: While swaybars do control the roll of a car’s chassis, so does the car’s tires, shocks and most importantly springs. While you want the car to maximize it’s tire contact patch as much as possible on all 4 corners, a perfectly flat cornering car is not always a fast car. Overly stiff cars especially street cars on high performance, low profile street tires can be nervous and un-forgiving especially on bumps and rough road surfaces. Ideally you want to run your car’s suspension as soft as possible while maximizing its road contact patch while it corners, brakes and accelerates. While a go-kart’s suspension is great for perfectly smooth race tracks, a street car needs to operate on bump off-ramps, off camber corners and less than perfect highways and interstates.